Robin Koul
Modern History of Qazigund: The area of Qazigund was a sort of padaw (transit stop) for those who travelled from the surrounding areas across the Jawahar Tunnel to and from other places. The only focal route connecting Kashmir valley to other parts of the country across the PirPanjalrange, through the Old Cart Road, then the Jawahar Tunnel, and now the modern Navyug tunnel, passing through the area of Qazigund. The people from surrounding areas came here to earn some livelihood and eventually settled down in Qazigund. People of all religions, including Muslims, Sikhs, and Hindus, made it their home. Mainly Hindu business families, especially shopkeepers and Aarthees came from Vessu, Wanpoh, and Chowgam. A good number of Sikh families from Baramulla also came here for the purpose of hotel business and settled here. The name Chaanpur originated as initially some carpenter families started doing their business in the emerging areas. In the later times, many Sufi saints visited the place, and with the development of the area, Muslim families, along with some Qazi’s, settled down here, hence giving an inclusive name Qazigund to the area.
It is said that there were initially only three Pandit families in Qazigund. Simultaneously, some more Hindu families settled, taking the count to twelve. Qazigund has always been known for religious tolerance. Muslims, Hindus, and Sikhs have resided peacefully in Qazigund for centuries.
In the later time, a fruit mandi and walnut processing factory was developed in Qazigund due to its strategic geographical location. All the produce from the valley was collected here for further transfer across the PirPanjal Range. Also, it became the receiving point for the goods coming from the Jammu region. With this many more businesses flourished here. It led to the rise in the settlement of the aartheeswho were the persons conducting those businesses.
Some of the important places in Qazigund are Levduru, Kundh,Kurighom, Chowgam, Divser (upper and lower),Kahnbarna, Dalwis, Tarighom, Wangund, Khatirchak, Badwinchak, Whaithul.
Ancient History of Qazigund: As Qazigundlies in thelap of the PirPanjal Range, it has a historical relationship with this Mountain Range. The PirPanjal region is named after the PirPanjal Pass, whose original name as recorded by Srivara, is Panchaladeva (The deity of Panchala). Panchala is a country mentioned in the Mahabharata in the northwest Uttar Pradesh. However, many scholars believe that this place in Mahabharata is a region in western Punjab and southern Kashmir. Scholar DineshchandraSircar has analysed the geography described in the Shakti?SangamaTantra, where this is indeed the case. Scholar M A Stein who translated Kalhana’s Rajatarangini into English states that, “the high mountain passes were always regarded as deities, or deities were associated with them. These customs continued from generation to generation and after Kashmir was Islamised the prefix Deva was substituted by Pir (Muslim Saint).” Also according to some references in ancient times, PirPanjal was better known as Dharanagri. It was referred to by this name in historical and ancient texts.
Two important spiritual Nagas which have reverence in our historical books are Vasak Nag and Panzath Nag. Which relates the history of present-day Qazigund to antiquities.
Spring and Nags: Qazigund is surrounded by springs, known as nags in the local language. Verinag, the source of the river Vatista, is only 10 km from Qazigund.
Vasak Nag: An ancient and mystical Naag known as VasukiNaag is at the base of a mountain near Wagam in a place called Kund around 12 km from Qazigund. The holy spring of NaagVasuki is a shrine for pilgrimage to Kashmiri Pandits. In this mysterious Naaga water appears only before the start of cultivation season and it runs dry when the cultivation season completes. It almost flows with water for six months and runs dry for six months. No one could understand this mysterious phenomenon till now. The rains, strong winds, and thunderstorms in the sky are the harbinger of the coming of water in this spiritual Naag. A large stream flows out of it and irrigates the cultivated land in the area.
VasukNaag is referred to as the abode of Nag Vasuki in ancient scriptures. When GarudDev was chasing the Nagas due to their enmity, he fled to Bhaderwah and settled there. But his love for his original abode later made him come to VasukNaag for six months in a year, bringing all the water along with him. There must be some mystical patallok(underground) route from Vasuk NagQazigund to his abode in Bhaderwah which he may be using for his commute to both the places along with his waters.
Part- II
The concoction of history, mythology, folklore, beliefs, culture, religion, Sanatan, Sufism, Sikhism, Islam, and the influence of various rulers has transformed what we know as “Qazigund” today. Now moving to the abode of Lord, Santan Mahadev Mandir in Qazigund.
Historic Sanatan Mahadev Mandir- Qazigund
Overview: A historic Shiv Mandir is located in the heart of town at Qazigund. This temple has a great legacy as being the only temple and revered religious site for the local Hindu Community in the area. It holds an honoured value for the local Pandit community. Many of the generations in the area had a personal association and emotional connection with this shrine, as they constructed this Shiv temple with their own hands brick by brick, saw it in the zenith of its glory, and are now distressed by seeing it in a reduced state due to the hard setback of migration.
Evolution: After the gradual development of the Qazigund, the number of Pandit families also increased. There arose a need for a religious and cultural place that could connect all the Pandit families with a feeling of association and religion. And for such a noble cause around ninety years ago one of the Kashmiri Pandits who was Chakdaar (Great landlord) of the area known as Pandit Vishnu Koul came forward. Pandit Vishnu Koul originally belonged to a nearby village, Vessu, but subsequently settled down in Qazigund. He bequeathed some land for the construction of Mandir and Dharamshalla. With the help of the local population and the support of some businessmen settled in Qazigund, the construction work was completed.
Importance: Not only did it become a common symbol of cultural unity and religious fervour among the people around the area, but also it became a place of importance to the people from other parts of the country too, as it provided a resting and a halting-place, particularly for the Sadhus coming to Kashmir during yearly Shree AmarnathJi Yatra. They used to stay in Dharamshala en route. Coming from any part of the world, of any creed, caste, or religion, this Dharamshala became the epitome of cultural amalgamation, where everyone was assured to get an ashray. During their stay, the local people organized the bandara and would provide food, bedding, and shelter to the pilgrims, holding a high example of selfless service to mankind. This Dharamshalla provided a 24×7 kitchen service for the pilgrims. Many of the cultural events, meetings, and various festivals were organized in this shrine. The temple complex had a public library also, which was the hub of literature for the intellectual people of Qazigund. This place became the centre of hustle and bustle among the Pandit community as well as other local people.
Talking to Amit Raina who shared his vivid and emotional memories of his regular childhood visit to the Sanatan Mahadev Mandir with his father AvtarKrishan Raina. His grandfather BrijNath Bharti ji, who had also served as the President of SanatanDharamSabha Qazigund, had done a lot for the conservation of the Mandir. Now the present president Sri BadriNath Raina is working relentlessly with the team of fellow Pandit families of the area for the renovation and preservation of the temple and the dharamshala.
Temple architecture: The temple premises start from the main road, which can be reached through an alleyway that passes under the building of the Dharamshala. The darshan of the divine Shivlingam inside the temple arouses a feeling of devotion in the hearts. One memorial stone is also preserved inside the temple. Temple walls are made up of bricks and the roof is constructed by GI sheets, spread on the wooden pillars. The front facade of the building consists of the Dharamshala, which has an occupancy of six rooms on the first floor.
Conclusion: Due to the distressed migration of the Hindu community, the temple lacks proper maintenance and the buildings are in a deteriorated condition. The local Hindu baradari has come forward to reconnect with their roots again and is now working on renovating both the buildings of the Mandir and the Dharamshala. They are trying to unite the people and resources under the banner of SanatanDharamSabha Trust Qazigund Kashmir.
This century-old Sanatan Mahadev Mandir holds great sanctity and significance among the locals. Its importance increases due to its strategic location for the transit point for the pilgrims.
The people of the nearby places and the Pandit community, in general, are requested to support this noble cause in any viable means, which will help us to connect to our roots. The main aim in the present scenario is to maintain the building and renovate the temple to its past glory. Preserving these priceless cultural treasures and restoring the sacred places is our moral duty. It will be a tribute to the legacy of our ancestors. This is the least we can do for them.
It is a request to the administration also, to take necessary steps for the preservation of this historical shrine. Again, the support of the local population is a must to regenerate the ambience of harmony by helping in the preservation of this abode of the Sanatan Mahadev.
It is the need of the hour to get involved and to know about the historical relevance of our cultural and religious heritage. So that the present and coming generation could relate their identity to those motifs. It is all about who we are. Otherwise, when we will stop running behind what we are following right now, sit to give a thought to the most important question of life: “Who am I ?” We will be lost nowhere if we don’t have relative answers that define our identity. Jai Sanatan Mahadev Ji !Jai Qazigund! Jai Mother Kashmira!
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