Lalit Gupta
Charyayi (Udhampur District): A Sacred Landscape of Springs, History, and Hydraulic Heritage
Nestled 22 kilometers northwest of Udhampur near Tikri, Charyayi-also spelt Chadeyai-is a historically significant and scenic settlement in the Jammu region. Rich in natural beauty, historical depth, and spiritual resonance, Charyayi stands as a unique example of how nature, culture, and engineering blended harmoniously in pre-modern Dogra society.
At the heart of Charyayi’s charm lies the Girihar, blessed with a series of perennial natural springs and a cluster of 19th-century temples. To its east lies Ghagga, a concave hilly slope renowned for its tranquil environment, dense tree cover, and architecturally encased freshwater sources.
Historically, Charyayi held strategic importance as a node along one of the many ancient trade and foot routes that connected the north-Indian plains with the Pir Panjal ranges and beyond. According to historian Jagdish Chander Sathe, Charyayi was a summer retreat for princes of Central Asian states who were brought down to places like Chenaini and Charyayi during the times of Kushanas. He opined that Chreyayi is the changed form of the Chinese term Sh-Leyi. As per Sathe, the Sanskrit consonants of Cha and Ja change into Sha in Chinese. So the Chinese word Sha-leyi got changed into Cha-ryayi.
During the 15th and 16th centuries, Charyayi formed part of the jagir of Raja Chaggar Singh of the Jijj Rajput subcaste. The Raja built a fort and palace in a nearby place which is now Jajjli village. Two sites labeled -Uparli Sarkar and Khalki Sarkar-located below Charyayi are believed to be the remnants of the Raja’s and his son’s palaces.
In the early 17th century, due to a famine in Rajasthani, migrating stone-cutters built the famous baolies, including Chambe Wali Bauli, Manjali Bauli, and the Bari Bauli.
The Kaggey di Baan system represents a feat of hydraulic engineering that ingeniously channelled down spring water from higher elevations through stone conduits resting on arched supporting walls-reminiscent of Roman aqueducts. Water from the Ghagga channel emerged through a beautifully sculpted makara-head spout, cascading in a dramatic fifty-foot fall into two terraced reservoirs below. Built in the distinctive Dogra architectural style, the Charyayi baulis are square reservoirs, adorned with carvings of mythological scenes and Hindu deities.
In the 19th century, Maharaja Gulab Singh frequented Charyayi to meet his spiritual mentor, Brahmachari Purshottam. As per oral accounts, after the 1857 War of Independence, a Maratha warrior, possibly Nana Sahib, along with his companion, disguised as sadhus, sought shelter in a cave in nearby Samole village. They were later sheltered in Gyankot above Khagga by Raja Amar Singh, father of Maharaja Hari Singh. Mysteriously, the ascetics disappeared, and their fate remains unknown.
Charyayi, from its ancient trade routes and Kushana-era retreats to Dogra-era engineering marvels and post-1857 resistance stories, offers a unique insight into the civilizational richness of the Jammu region.
Chenani (Udhampur district): Historical Overview
Chenani (also spelt Chenahni) is the principal town of the former princely state with the same name. Bounded on the north by the Chenab river, on the east by Bhadarwah, on the west by the Birohn Nala and Bhoti (Krimachi), it included two main portions, separated by Ladha di Dhar-one part in the Uppar Tawi valley and the other in the Chinab Valley.
The ancient name of Chenani was Himta or Hiunta, meaning the ‘snow country’. Hence, the ruling dynasty adopted the clan name Hiuntal, which later evolved to Hantal.
According to tradition, the state was founded in the early 10th century by a branch of the Chandel Rajput clan, said to have migrated from Chanderi in Bundelkhand (modern-day Madhya Pradesh). Initially named Chandel Nagri, the name later evolved into Chanderhani and eventually Chenani.
Chenani came under Mughal suzerainty. In the post-Mughal period, fate of Chanani was closely linked with the Jammu Raj. Chenani forces allied with Ranjit Dev (Raja of Jammu) in joint military operations, including the suppression of revolt in Kashmir and subjugation of the rebellious Mughal Governor Sukhjiwan. Matrimonial alliances further cemented ties between Chenani and the Jammu royal family.
In 1822, Chenani was annexed by Raja Suchet Singh. However, due to the loyalty of Raja Dyal Chand of Chenani to the Lahore Darbar under Sikh Maharaja Ranjit Singh, a part of the territory was restored. The ruling family was permitted to reside in their ancient capital, albeit as vassals to Jammu’s authority.
The ancient Shaiva pilgrimage centre of Sudhmahadev, with its 3rd-4th century Brahmi inscription testifies to the antiquity and cultural significance of the area.
Chingus (Rajouri district): Echoes of Imperial Mughal Road
Chingus, formerly known as Khanpur, is a historical village in the Rajouri district, about 125 kilometres from Jammu. Established by Jaral Rajas of Rajouri, Khanpur gained strategic prominence when it became a key halting station along the Imperial Mughal Road, the route chosen for the travel of royal caravans from Lahore to Kashmir during the Mughal era.
This route, once an ancient pedestrian track known as Lavna Sarani or the Salt Road, was traditionally used to transport salt from Punjab (now in Pakistan) to Jammu and Kashmir.
With Akbar choosing this route to travel to Kashmir, this trail was strengthened with improved road systems and a network of halting stations designed to accommodate royal caravans. Between 1586 to 1664 CE, it witnessed multiple royal journeys, including two by Akbar, at least eight by Jahangir, one each by Shah Jahan and Aurangzeb.
Like other halting stations on the Mughal Road, a Mughal Sarai (rest house) was built here between 1605 and 1621 CE by Ali Mardan Khan under Emperor Jahangir’s orders.
However, the Chingus Sarai gained lasting importance for a dramatic moment in Mughal history. In October 1628, while returning from Kashmir to Lahore, Jahangir’s health deteriorated. His influential queen, Noor Jahan, attempted to take him to Lahore for treatment, but he died in the Panj Sarai region on October 28, at the age of fifty-eight. Fearing potential accession crises, Noor Jahan concealed the emperor’s death. Following medical advice, Jahangir’s entrails and internal organs were removed and buried at the Khanpur Sarai to preserve the body for transport. The Persian word for intestines, “Chingun” or “Chingan”, eventually gave the village and the Sarai its current name-Chingus. Jahangir’s body lies entombed in Shahdara in Lahore.
Following the decline of Mughal power in the 18th century, the Chingus Sarai gradually fell into disuse. Its neglect continued in the colonial era and after India’s independence, the Sarai served first as police station and later as a military base. Today, this unique monument-linked to the final chapter of Jahangir’s life-is a protected monument under the J&K Department of Archives, Archaeology and Museums.
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