Dr Nisar Farhad
On Independence Day, I journeyed from Pulwama to Drang, Chadoora, ecovillages, and the Sukhnag River, discovering Kashmir’s natural beauty and cultural soul.The travelogue reflects how true freedom lies in connecting with nature, sustaining traditions, and cherishing the harmony of village life.
This year, on 15th August, while the nation unfurled the tricolour and celebrated freedom in cities and towns, I chose a different celebration. Along with my friend Mohmad Iqbal Malla, I set out from my home town Pulwama at 10:30 a.m. to discover the natural beauty and cultural soul of Kashmir, beginning from Drang in Tangmarg and returning via Chadoora, exploring ecovillages, rivers, and hidden valleys along the way.
The Charm of Drang
Drang, a quaint hamlet near Tangmarg, has slowly carved its name on the travel map of Kashmir. Best known for its spectacular waterfall, fed by the glacial waters of the Ferozepora Nallah, this little gem transforms with the seasons. In winter, the fall freezes into a breathtaking curtain of icicles—an awe-inspiring cascade of ice that looks like a frozen dream. In summer and early autumn, however, the waterfall roars with full force, carrying the melted waters from the glaciers of Gulmarg.
Just 42 kilometres from Srinagar and 13 kilometres from the famed hill station of Gulmarg, Drang is often called a “hidden wonder.” Interestingly, while the waterfall is a man-made marvel, its winter transformation into a natural ice sculpture has elevated it into one of the most photographed attractions in Kashmir. Against the backdrop of snow-covered hills, the frozen fall feels like nature’s own masterpiece—a scene so surreal it feels like stepping into another world.
For photographers, vloggers, and nature lovers, Drang is nothing short of a paradise. The frozen walls of ice shimmer like crystal glass in the winter sun, while the snow-draped pine trees and whitewashed paths add to its ethereal charm. Yet, in summer, the scene is equally mesmerizing—green meadows, flowing waters, and families gathered on its banks for picnics.
When we arrived in Drang at 12:30 p.m., after covering nearly 70 kilometres from Pulwama, the scene was both lively and serene. Children played in the shallow streams, their laughter blending with the thunder of rushing water. Families spread out picnic mats under the pine trees, enjoying the cool mountain air. A steaming cup of traditional Kashmiri kahwa in one hand and a plate of aromatic biryani from a local stall in the other added a distinct flavour to the experience.
In that moment, with the scent of pine in the air and the powerful symphony of the waterfall drowning out every other sound, we understood the true essence of freedom. It was more than a journey; it was a soulful pause from the routine, a reminder of nature’s healing embrace, and a celebration of Kashmir’s timeless beauty.
The Road Less Taken: Via Chadoora
While most visitors choose the usual route back from Drang through Tangmarg and Srinagar, we opted for a detour via Chadoora. The road, though narrow and winding, unfolded like a ribbon of discovery, with every turn offering a new canvas of Kashmir’s rustic charm.
Golden paddy fields stretched endlessly on either side, where farmers bent low with sickles in hand, their steady rhythm harmonizing with the soft melodies of birds. The air was alive with the laughter of children darting through orchards, their kites—splashed in the hues of the national flag—soaring proudly against the late summer sky.
By the roadside, elderly men sat on wooden benches outside small shops, sipping steaming cups of noon chai. Their calm gazes followed the passing scene, as though time itself slowed down in these villages. Each hamlet seemed to exist in its own world, unhurried and serene, offering us fleeting but profound glimpses of an authentic Kashmiri countryside—an experience no highway could ever provide.
Ecovillages: A Sustainable Kashmir
On our way, we paused to explore some of the emerging ecovillages—Baderkot, Ganwani, Gogaldara, Aripathan, Arizal, and others—that have recently taken root in this region. These settlements represent a harmonious blend of traditional Kashmiri lifestyle and eco-friendly practices such as solar power, organic farming, and natural construction techniques.
It was heartening to witness entire communities working hand in hand to protect the environment while safeguarding their cultural identity. As we strolled through the villages, we noticed neatly stacked piles of firewood prepared for the winter, lush vegetable gardens thriving without a trace of chemicals, and women seated on verandas, weaving carpets on traditional handlooms.
Sukhnag: The River of Comfort
Our journey reached its most soothing halt at the Sukhnag River—a name that translates beautifully to the “River of Comfort.” As we approached, the gentle murmur of its waters welcomed us, weaving into the breeze like a lullaby. Flowing gracefully through meadows and thick forests, Sukhnag seemed less like a river and more like a hymn of peace written by nature itself.
The first splash of its icy water on our tired feet was electrifying, yet calming. Soon, we were bathing under the playful shimmer of sunlight dancing on the ripples. Around us, the valley exhaled silence, broken only by the distant call of a shepherd guiding his flock across the slopes. In that moment, time slowed. The world felt lighter, as though the river carried not just water, but the weight of our weariness too.
Nestled in the heart of District Budgam, Sukhnag is one of Kashmir’s hidden marvels. While names like Gulmarg, Pahalgam, and Sonamarg echo across travel brochures, this pristine river lies quietly in the shadow of the Pir Panjal range, waiting to be discovered. Snow-draped peaks stood guard in the distance, and the lush deodar and fir forests wrapped the valley in a green embrace. It was a landscape so perfect, it seemed chiseled by divine hands.
The river’s story begins in the upper reaches of Tosamaidan, particularly from the serene Dammam Sar area, where forests cradle its infant streams. Reaching it is a delight in itself—just a 40-minute walk from the Tourist Reception Centre at Raiyar-Ich, Tangnar, leads you to this untouched wonder.
Yet, despite its ethereal charm, Sukhnag remains far from the tourist map. If nurtured with care, it could easily become one of the Valley’s crown jewels—inviting travelers from afar, empowering local communities, and offering young people opportunities in eco-tourism.
For us, Sukhnag was not just a destination—it was an experience of stillness and renewal. A river that doesn’t just flow through the valley, but through memory, carrying with it the essence of Kashmir’s unmatched beauty.
Reflections of an Independence Day
As we finally headed home under a sky scattered with stars, I realised our journey was far more than a casual outing. It was a celebration of freedom in its truest sense—the freedom to explore, to breathe untainted air, to connect with the soul of nature, and to witness the living traditions of Kashmir’s villages.
While the nation marked Independence Day in bustling squares and decorated stadiums, I found my celebration in the quiet valleys and rivers. Drang, Chadoora, the ecovillages, and the gentle flow of Sukhnag gifted me not just scenic beauty, but also a deeper sense of belonging. They reminded me that independence is not only a matter of history and politics—it is also the privilege to live in harmony with the land, its people, and the timeless spirit of community.
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