Udhampur, an important district of the Union Territory of Jammu and Kashmir, occupies a significant place in the historical and cultural landscape of the Duggar region. Located in the lower Himalayan belt, particularly within the Shivalik ranges, the district reflects a long historical evolution shaped by geography, migration, political developments and religious traditions. References in ancient texts, regional traditions and archaeological remains scattered across the region collectively indicate that Udhampur possesses a deep historical antiquity. Over time, it has witnessed the presence of early tribal communities, the rise of small hill principalities and eventually the consolidation of power under the Dogra rulers. Daily Excelsior captures this essence in this special edition of Sunday Magazine through a number of esteemed writers hailing from the district.
Prof Shiv Nirmohi
Geographically, Udhampur lies between approximately 33° and 34° north latitude and between 75° and 76.45° east longitude. The district covers an area of about 2,380 square kilometres and forms part of the Shivalik hill system of the outer Himalayas.
The terrain is characterized by undulating hills, narrow valleys, forested slopes and seasonal streams. The mountains surrounding the district appear in several chains locally known as dhars. Among the prominent dhars are Kunjdhar, Dingidhar, Tibbadhar, Jadsardhar, Kathaldhar and Paagudhar. These mountain ranges constitute an ecologically rich zone and support a wide variety of plant and animal life. Forests cover nearly 960 square kilometres of the district area and are dominated by chir pine forests along with mixed vegetation in higher altitudes.
CLIMATE
The climate of Udhampur is moderately temperate due to its elevation and mountainous environment. Summers can be warm with temperatures rising to about 35°C, while winters remain comparatively mild in the lower hills though higher elevations experience colder conditions. The region receives adequate rainfall during the monsoon season which supports agriculture and vegetation growth. In some of the higher mountainous areas light snowfall occurs during winter months. The arrival of spring transforms the landscape into a scene of natural beauty with blooming flowers and fresh greenery covering the hills and valleys.
WATER RESOURCES
Water resources have played an important role in sustaining settlements in the district. Several rivers and streams flow through the region and some of them are mentioned in ancient Indian literature. The Rigveda refers to rivers such as Anjasi, Kulishi and Veer Patni which scholars tentatively associate with present-day streams of the region, including the Anji. Later texts such as the Puranas mention the rivers Taushi and Devika. The Taushi is generally identified with the modern Tawi River, while the Devika River holds special religious importance in the Duggar region. Flowing close to the town of Udhampur, the Devika is regarded in local tradition as sacred and is often described as the Ganga of the Duggar land. Apart from rivers, the district contains several natural lakes and traditional water reservoirs. Lake Ram Rachna, Dharamsar, Pinyar Sar, Dalsar and Dehra Ka Sar are located in different mountainous areas and have long served as water sources for pastoral communities. These lakes are also associated with local legends and religious traditions. In addition, numerous ponds are found in villages and have historically been used for domestic purposes and irrigation. Among the known ponds are Pata Pond, Jakheni Pond, Dalah Pond and Pandu Pond. These water bodies reflect the traditional water management practices adopted by the inhabitants of the region.
POPULATION
The population of Udhampur has grown steadily over the decades. According to the census of 1971, the population of the district was about 338,846 which increased to 453,636 in 1981. As per the 2011 census, the population reached approximately 5,57689. The population largely resides in rural areas distributed across numerous villages. The district has a network of panchayats which form the basis of local governance. The inhabitants mainly belong to the Dogra cultural tradition and Dogri language is widely spoken along with Hindi and Urdu. Agriculture, animal husbandry and small-scale trade have traditionally formed the basis of the local economy.
ADMINISTRATIVE SETUP
Administratively, the district comprises several tehsils such as Udhampur, Ramnagar, Ghordi, Panchari, Moungri, Majalta, Chenani, Basantgarh and Latti. These administrative divisions correspond to historically distinct geographical regions, each possessing its own cultural and historical features. The total land area of the district is estimated at about 587,896 acres.
EARLY HISTORY
The early history of Udhampur is closely connected with mythological traditions and references in ancient Sanskrit literature. Before the emergence of organized states, the region was inhabited by various tribal communities who lived in the forests and hills. Ancient texts and regional folklore refer to several early races such as the Pishachas, Asuras, Kiratas, Yakshas, Nagas and Nadeya. While many of these references belong partly to mythology, they may reflect the memory of early tribal populations inhabiting the Himalayan foothills.
The Rigveda contains references to an Asura named Am-Kuyab Asur who is believed to have lived secretly in caves in the Jib area. Local traditions continue to speak of ancient cave dwellers and mysterious early inhabitants of the region. Several caves and rock shelters found in different parts of the district may have served as early habitation sites.
Among the early communities mentioned in regional traditions, the Nagas occupy a prominent place. Serpent worship has long been associated with Himalayan cultures and the cult of Nagas remains widespread in many parts of Jammu and Kashmir. According to local traditions, the Nagas came to rule this region after defeating earlier inhabitants and established several small chiefdoms. Names such as Bhurdar Nag, Shankhpal Nag, Sankri Nag and Loudana Nag are preserved in oral traditions and in the names of certain places in the district. Archaeological traces from early historical periods have also been discovered in areas associated with these traditions.
One of the most important ancient religious centres of the region is Sudhmahadev. This temple complex, located near Chenani, is dedicated to Lord Shiva and has been a major pilgrimage site for centuries. Within the temple complex there is a trident on which an inscription mentions the name of Raja Ganpati. Some historians interpret this reference as belonging to the 4BC although the exact chronology remains uncertain. The presence of ancient sculptures and temple remains in the vicinity indicates that Sudhmahadev was an important religious centre in ancient times.
The Yakshas also appear in regional traditions associated with Udhampur. On the western side of the Tawi River there existed a settlement believed to have been inhabited by Yakshas, which later came to be known as Jakhani. Some scholars believe that the name Jakhani itself may have originated from the word Yaksha. Such traditions suggest that early communities practising nature worship lived in this region.
A figure frequently mentioned in historical traditions is Krimish Yaksha who is associated with the ancient settlement of Krimachi. According to some scholars including Jagdish Chander Sathe, Krimish Yaksha may have been a historical ruler who lived during the period of the Indo-Greek king Menander, also known as Milinda, who ruled from Sialkot during the second century BC. Literary traditions suggest that Krimish Yaksha opposed Pushyamitra of the Shunga dynasty. It is also believed that he supported the spread of Buddhism in the region.
The archaeological remains at Krimachi provide valuable evidence of the historical importance of this site. The Krimachi temple complex, constructed in the Nagara style of north Indian architecture, are built of dressed stone blocks and display finely carved doorways and architectural ornamentation. Scholars generally date the construction of these temples between the eighth and twelfth centuries CE. The site suggests that Krimachi was once an important religious and political centre in the Duggar region.
After the period associated with the Nagas and Yakshas, historical records indicate the rise of the Khasas in the Himalayan region. The Rajatarangini written by Kalhana refers to the Khasas as powerful rulers of hill territories before and around the tenth century CE. In the region of present-day Udhampur, one of the Khasa principalities was Vishalta. Its capital is believed to have been located at Prand where archaeological remains have been discovered. The territory under their control was sometimes referred to as Khasalaya. A fort remembered in local tradition as Khasein da Kot is believed to have existed there.
MEDIEVAL HISTORY
The medieval history of the region witnessed the emergence of several small hill principalities. Political disturbances in the plains of northern India, especially after repeated invasions beginning in the tenth century, led many ruling families to migrate towards the relatively secure hill regions. These migrants established independent regimes in different parts of Udhampur. Among the important principalities were Babbapur, Himtal, Bhuti, Bandralta, Balwalta, Chiryai, Tikri-Chanas, Jaganoo and Pangasta.
Babbapur is considered by some historians to be among the earliest political centres of the Duggar region and may have served as an important capital before the rise of Jammu. Himtal, which was later known as Chenani, also held considerable significance. The Chinese traveller Huiensang, who visited India during the seventh century CE, is believed by some scholars to have mentioned this region in his travel accounts. It is said that he stayed in a Buddhist monastery known as Taushasan located somewhere in this area.
Chenani later developed into an important hill principality ruled by Chandel kings. Historical accounts mention Raja Gambhir Chand as the first ruler of this dynasty while Raja Ram Chand is regarded as its last ruler. The sacred site of Sudhmahadev formed part of this principality and several historical remains of the Chenani rulers are found in the region.
The Bhuti principality extended from Krimachi to Lander and was ruled by a line of about thirty-two kings according to tradition. The Krimachi temple complex located within this territory reflects the cultural and religious patronage of the rulers of Bhuti.
Another important state was Bandralta, the earlier name of present-day Ramnagar. Tradition attributes its foundation to Raja Brehattardev. In 1822 Suchet Singh, the brother of Gulab Singh, became the ruler of this region. Later Raja Ram Singh ruled here and changed the name of the town to Ramnagar. The area still contains several historical structures including old forts, temples and palaces which testify to its past importance.
DOGRA PERIOD
The political situation of the region changed significantly in the nineteenth century when Gulab Singh consolidated his authority in Jammu. On 16 June 1822 he was formally installed as the Raja of Jammu. Soon afterwards he granted the territory around the Devika River as a jagir to his eldest son Udham Singh. Udham Singh established a settlement along the banks of the Devika and named it Udhampur after himself. Although Udham Singh died in 1839, the town continued to grow under the Dogra rulers and gradually developed into an important administrative and commercial centre.
During the Dogra period several smaller principalities and jagirs were gradually incorporated into the expanding Jammu state. Regions such as Chiryai, Tikri, Jaganoo, Majalta, Ghordi, Latti-Dhuna and Basantgarh were integrated into the larger administrative framework of the Jammu kingdom. This process brought political stability and contributed to the gradual development of the region.
The historical development of Udhampur thus reflects a long and complex process beginning with early tribal settlements and mythological traditions, followed by the rise of local hill kingdoms and culminating in the integration of the region under the Dogra rulers. The archaeological remains found at sites such as Sudhmahadev, Krimachi and Ramnagar provide important evidence for understanding this historical evolution. Together with literary references and oral traditions, these remains form a valuable part of the cultural heritage of the Duggar region. Even today the landscape of Udhampur preserves numerous traces of its ancient past in the form of temples, forts, sacred groves and archaeological ruins scattered across its hills and valleys, reminding us of the rich historical legacy of this region.
Udhampur
My Beloved Motherland
O’ Udhampur, land where first I saw the light,
Thy hills and valleys fill my heart with pride.
From thy pure springs I drank in childhood’s days,
And lived upon the gifts thy fields provide.
Thy sacred dust is mingled with my breath,
Thy love flows gently through my humble vein;
For thee I’d gladly give my home and wealth,
For none on earth such noble charms contain.
Thou art my Krishna and my Radha fair,
My shrine of hope, my everlasting song;
Among the many lands beneath the sun
Thy grace has drawn my heart for long.
Founded by Udham Singh, the noble son
Of Gulab Singh whose brave deeds we praise,
Thy streets and homes still echo with the tales
Of ancient glory from the forgotten days.
Here Hindus, Sikhs and Muslims live as one,
Their voices rise in songs both proud and clear;
The ancient strains of Karaks, Bhaakhs and Baars
Still float like echoes through the mountain air.
The lively dance of Kud in festive time
Brings joy when Eid & Baisakhi appear;
While pine-clad hills in silent majesty
Stand watchful guardians year by year.
The heights of Patnitop greet the wandering clouds,
While serene Sanasar rests in beauty rare;
And pilgrims bow at Sudhmahadev Temple’s shrine
In humble faith & quiet, whispered prayer.
The shining waves of Mansar Lake spread wide,
And still Surinsar Lake sleeps in gentle grace;
While sacred Devika River flows in silence near,
And mighty Tawi River blesses all this place.
Close stands Vaishno Devi Temple on the holy hill,
Where many pilgrims seek the Mother’s care;
And ancient Krimchi Temples carved in stone
Beautifully guard the memories resting there.
Sweet are thy springs, yet sweeter are thy folk,
Their warmth and truth no stranger can ignore;
Whoever walks once through thy gentle hills
Feels he has found a hidden, priceless store.
Blessed am I beneath thy sky to live—
More blessed if in thy soil my rest shall be;
For thou, O’ Udhampur, beloved and dear,
Art more than home—you are my destiny.
-Dr Jitender Udhampuri
(The author is Padamshree awardee)
(The author is Padamshree awardee)
The post Udhampur A Historical Perspective appeared first on Daily Excelsior.