Chander M Bhat
chander.1831@gmail.com
The Somyar Temple, a revered shrine dedicated to Lord Shiva, stands as a testament to the spiritual heritage of the Kashmiri Pandit community. Nestled gracefully on the serene banks of the Vitasta, also known as the Jhelum River, the temple is situated at Habba Kadal, a historic locality in the heart of Srinagar. Spanning an area of approximately one Kanal, the temple once symbolized the deep rooted spiritual vigor and cultural identity of the Kashmiri Pandits, drawing devotees from near and far to its sacred grounds.
The temple complex was more than just a place of worship; it was a vibrant hub of community life. In addition to its spiritual significance, the Somyar Temple was home to several commercial properties, which added to the temple’s prominence in the local economy. Among the notable establishments that operated within the temple’s property were the renowned shops of Muka Mazair and Pandit Prathvi Nath Tickoo, affectionately known as “Pratha Galdar.” These shops were well known in Srinagar, providing a livelihood to families while also contributing to the vibrant marketplace that surrounded the temple.
At the heart of this sacred site lies a majestic Shiva Lingam, housed within the main sanctum of the temple under a big Chinar tree. The Lingam, a powerful symbol of Lord Shiva, has been the focal point of devotion for generations of Kashmiri Pandits, evoking a sense of deep reverence and spiritual connection. For centuries, devotees flocked to the temple to offer prayers, perform rituals, and seek blessings, reinforcing the temple’s significance as a spiritual beacon in the region.
However, the peaceful existence of the Somyar Temple and its surrounding properties was disrupted during the turmoil of 1990, a period of political and social unrest that deeply impacted Kashmir valley. The violence and uncertainty that ensued during this time led to the destruction of a portion of the temple’s properties, including the famous commercial establishments. This tragic event marked a turning point in the history of the Somyar Temple, as it did for many other sacred places in Kashmir, reshaping the fate of these once thriving spiritual and cultural centers.
Despite the hardships endured, the Somyar Temple remains a symbol of resilience and spiritual endurance. The grand Shiva Lingam within the sanctum continues to inspire devotion, standing as a reminder of the rich spiritual legacy of the Kashmiri Pandit community. Though the temple may have faced physical destruction, the faith and reverence of its devotees keep the spirit of Somyar alive, echoing the eternal presence of Lord Shiva amidst the changing tides of time.
For centuries, Somvati Amavasya, a new moon day that falls on a Monday, was a significant occasion here. This day carried special spiritual weight in the Hindu calendar, and for the Kashmiri Pandits, it was a day of immense devotion. On this sacred day, a vast number of devotees, particularly womenfolk, would gather at Somyar Temple. After taking a purifying bath in the holy waters of the Vitasta, they would perform puja (worship) to Lord Shiva with great reverence. The banks of the Vitasta would be alive with the sound of conches and bells, accompanied by the harmonious chanting of hymns, as thousands of devotees sought blessings.
In Amarakosa we read about Amavasi “Amavasya tvamavasya darsah suryendusamgamah”. Amavasi means the New Moon. “Ama” means ‘Saha’. So Amavasi is the Union of Sun and Moon in the same rashi. Mahabharata, Adi Parva, Chapter 75, Verse 24 mentions that once Bhrgu Maharsi cursed Agni at that time Agni explained the importance of Amavasi. The oblations which are offered as homa into the fire become the food of the Devas and Pitrs. Substances offered as homa on Purnamashi become food of the Devas and those offered on Amavasi become food of the Pitrs.
This was a tradition that had carried on for ages, where the banks of the Vitasta resonated with the prayers and hymns of the Kashmiri Pandits, making it a sanctified space. The temples lining the river, including Somyar, witnessed this sacred symphony, standing as a testament to the deep rooted spiritual connection the community had with its land and faith.
However, by the year 1989, change was on the horizon. The Chief Minister of Jammu and Kashmir at the time had proposed the construction of a new Habba Kadal bridge, with its route slated to cut through the land occupied by the Somyar Temple. The very existence of the temple was under threat. The Kashmiri Pandit community, deeply rooted in their reverence for this ancient temple, raised their voices in protest. Their collective resolve led to the decision being overturned, and the bridge was re-routed a little ahead, thus sparing the temple from destruction. This momentary victory ensured that Somyar Temple remained intact, standing as a guardian of faith on the Vitasta’s sacred banks.
Somvati Amavasya holds deep significance in Hindu tradition. The new moon day is referred to as Amavasya or Amavas in Kashmiri, and the one that occurs on a Monday is known as Somvati Amavasya. This day is considered highly auspicious, particularly for devotees of Lord Shiva and Lord Vishnu. Many people observe a day long fast, dedicating their prayers to their personal deity. It is also a day when Hindus pay respects to their ancestors, performing Shradha rituals to appease the departed souls. Devotees offer water to the Sun God and perform prayers to Lord Shiva and his family, seeking blessings for peace and prosperity.
Kashmir, despite its centuries of upheaval, has always been an inseparable part of the larger Hindu civilization. The remnants of its ancient temples in stone stand as mute testimony to the enduring history of Hinduism in the valley. Despite facing centuries of persecution, these temples bear witness to the resilience of the Kashmiri Pandit community and their unwavering faith.
However, the tragic events of the late 20th century altered this landscape forever. The Somyar Mandir, once filled with the energy of thousands of devotees on Somvati Amavasya, now stands desolate. The Kashmiri Pandits, who once thronged the temple with their prayers, hymns, and offerings, are now scattered in exile, living hundreds of miles away from the land they once called home.
The temple, once alive with devotion and faith, now echoes in silence. The voice of a million hymns that once filled its portals has faded away, and the temple stands as a solemn reminder of the vibrant spiritual life that once pulsated through it. The once bustling banks of the Vitasta, where devotees bathed and prayed, are now empty, the temple’s grandeur hidden under the weight of time and neglect.
In the quiet solitude of the Somyar Temple, the passage of time is marked not by the chimes of bells or the calls of prayer, but by the silence of absence. The legacy of devotion remains etched in its walls, waiting for the day when the voices of its people may once again rise to fill the air with sacred hymns, rekindling the flame of faith that has never truly extinguished.
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