75-year-old handcrafts key Pashmina tool
Nawshaba Iqbal
SRINAGAR, Mar 17: As traditional handloom weaving declines in Kashmir, 75-year-old Abdul Majeed Zargar remains among the few artisans still crafting the Mukh-a small wooden shuttle essential to weaving Pashmina.
The Mukh carries thread back and forth across the loom, enabling the formation of fabric and the intricate patterns that define Pashmina shawls.
“Without Mukh, Pashmina cannot be woven. When a weaver sits at the loom, this tool must be there,” Zargar said.
For the past 45 years, Zargar, a resident of Rainawari, has been making the tool entirely by hand using wood and brass, relying only on basic implements such as chisels and files. Each piece takes nearly a full day to complete.
Zargar did not begin his career with this craft. As a young man, he first worked in silver craft and later in bangle cutting before eventually turning to making the Mukh.
“I struggled for almost a year before I properly learned how to make it,” he said, adding that he acquired the skill through experience rather than formal training.
In the early years, he travelled to different Pashmina weaving units to sell his work.
He recalls that a factory owner in the Khaiwan area near Hawal once examined his product, pointed out its shortcomings and advised him on how to improve it.
“At that time, I sold one pair for Rs 40. Gradually my work gained recognition and demand increased, with customers placing orders months in advance,” he said.
However, the growing use of power looms has reduced traditional handloom weaving, directly affecting the demand for handmade Mukhs.
“Earlier there used to be a waiting period of up to three months. Now the demand is not the same,” he said. At present, a pair of Mukhs costs around Rs 1,800.
Zargar said he has received recognition from handicraft authorities for his contribution and that officials also helped him complete his registration formalities.
Over the years, he has trained two people in the craft and also attempted to teach his son.
“This work requires patience and time to master,” he said.
Expressing concern about the future of the craft, Zargar said fewer young people are willing to learn it.
“Some weavers even buy extra pieces because they fear I may die,” he said.
“Pashmina is known across the world, but people should also understand the tools behind it. This loom still needs its shuttle,” he added.
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